'Then the taxi stopped. The friend got out and Primila and I drove away. "Where's this film of yours?" I said. She said it was near my hotel. I asked her what time it started. "It runs all day."

'I was just making conversation, and I found that after a few minutes I was talking about a painting I'd bought from a dealer the previous day, a fairly good one, Lakshmi and Vishnu intertwined on a lotus blossom. Primila was so quiet, I became quite talkative. It happens – a person's reticence makes me talk an awful lot, kind of compensating.

'At the hotel I said, "I hope you don't have far to walk." She said the cinema was right around the corner. I asked her if she had ever been in the hotel before and when she said not I felt sorry for her, as if she'd been excluded from the place because she didn't have the money. I said, "Want to look it over?" She said yes. We went in. I showed her the restaurants and bars, the newsstand, the curio shop where I'd bought my painting. She was quite interested, walking beside me, taking it all in like a person in a museum.

'What I think I should have told you first is that about six months ago I was in Madras. I had some time to kill, so one afternoon I visited a palmist, Swami Sundram. He was a leathery old man and his house in Mylapore didn't have the usual charts and religious pictures and not even many cushions. He sat at a roll-top desk with a pencil and a piece of paper, in a kind of library stacked with mouldy books. He looked at my palm, line by line, then did a diagram on the paper and made notes, circling and underlining them as he went along. He didn't say a word for ten minutes or so, though he often paused as he was writing to press his forehead, like a person trying to remember something.

'Finally, he said, "You have been very sick, pains in the stomach, muscle pains, and trouble passing motion." I almost laughed -1 mean, you don't have to be a palmist to tell someone in India he's had stomach trouble. He told me one or two other things, but I said, "Look, I know what's happened to me – what I want to know is what's going to happen."

'He said, "I see an Indian girl. Classical face, maybe a dancer. You are alone with her."

'"Is that all?" I said.

' "Not all," he said. "I see her dancing for you."

'Well, naturally, I thought of what Swami Sundram had said when I was with Primila at the hotel. I asked her if she was a dancer, and she said no. Then out on the verandah she said, "I used to do classical dancing when I was younger, if that's what you mean. But all Indian girls do that." I suggested tea. She said yes. I said we could have a drink instead. She said "As you say." I ordered a gin and tonic. She said she wanted rum. I couldn't believe it. "Real rum?" I said. She giggled, like in the taxi, but didn't change her mind. When our drinks came we touched glasses and she went silent again.

'I was barely conscious of talking about my painting, but there wasn't very much to talk about, and I found I was having trouble describing the thing. Several times, I said, "You should see it." She said, "I'd like to," and that annoyed me because it meant I'd have to go upstairs, dig it out, and bring it down. It was in a sealed wrapper because of the dust. I was sorry I'd mentioned it – I'd only done it to keep the conversation going. I could have been having a nice drink alone – relaxing. I need to be alone after seeing people, sort of put myself back together. Lunch with old Bapna had tired me out. I didn't say anything more.

' "Do you have it with you?" she said. I told her it was upstairs and I felt as if I was getting into a corner because I couldn't refuse to show her. "Would you like to see it?" "Very much," she said. I said all right, but that it would be a lot easier if she came upstairs. She said fine. "When you finish your drink," I said. But she had finished her drink. I gulped mine down and we went upstairs. In the room she said, "I hate air conditioners." I gave the thing a kick and it shut off.

'We looked at the painting, sitting on the bed – it was the only place to sit – and as she pointed out what was good about it, how the figures were so well done, she reached over and picked it up from my lap. Has a girl ever lifted something from your lap? It gave me a thrill -I felt a surprising voltage in my groin from the light pressure of her hand.

'She showed me a detail of the picture, and when I looked closer I took her hand, and from the way she let me hold her hand I knew I could kiss her. They don't show kissing in Indian films. I know why. Because in India there is no such intimacy as a kiss that is not followed by a screw. A tiny particle of affection in India stands for passion, but what amazed me was that the whole thing was her idea, not mine. I had gone to the room with her against my will!

'I kissed her, and I was so surprised by her eagerness I practically fainted with excitement. I was really happy, and that sort of glee goes against the sex urge, but glee is more temporary than sex, and in a minute or so I was on her. She stayed for about two hours.

'The effect of this on me was incredible, like a conversion. Every woman I saw after that was attractive, and I saw each one as a possible lay. They really turned me on – I couldn't take my eyes off them. I saw them as coy, clever, geniuses of sexuality who had managed to disguise it all with that busy efficiency Indian women have. I was so assured by what I knew, I didn't bother to make a pass at any of them. But most of all I began to see some sense in what Swami Sundram had said: "She will dance for you." Obviously Primila was the girl he meant. I saw her a few more times and I really fell for her – I think even old Bapna suspected something was going on because he asked me a lot of questions about my family, and what sort of work did I do, and what were my plans? Primila talked a lot about leaving India and one day she turned up in a blouse and slacks. She looked insolent in Western clothes, but, as I say, I was beginning to love her and I imagined having one of those fantastic Indian weddings. Primila said she had always wanted to go to England – she had read so much about it, that sort of thing. I could see what was happening.

'Swami Sundram predicted it, I suppose, so the next chance I got I went to Madras, and to be absolutely sure he wouldn't recognize me I shaved off my beard and wore different clothes. This time I had to wait outside his house until he finished with another customer, and when I got inside he went through the same business of the diagrams and the notes. I didn't let on that I'd been there before. Then he said, "Head pains. I see many head pains, something like headache." I told him to go on. "You are expecting an important letter," he said. He pressed his temples. "You will receive this letter soon." I asked him if that was all. "No," he said, "you have a large mole on your penis." "No, I don't," I said. But he stuck to his story. He said, "You most certainly do." It amazed me that he should keep telling me that I had a mole on my penis while I was denying it and could even prove how wrong he was. He seemed rather irritated that I should contradict him. I paid him and left.

'That was yesterday. I didn't go back to Bangalore. I bought a ticket to Calcutta. I'm leaving – flying to Bangkok. If I hadn't seen that Swami I might be married now, or at least betrothed – it's the same thing. She was a nice girl, but I must have bad karma, and I don't have a mole on my penis. I looked.

'Pass the bottle,' he said. He took a swig and said, 'Never go back to a palmist.'

Through Berhampur and Khurda to Cuttack where children splashed, diving around buffaloes submerged to their nostrils in the wide Mahanadi River. This was the northeast corner of Orissa, smallpox capital of the world – Balasore, the very name suggesting some itching illness. The station signboards were captions to images I saw from the train: Tuleswar, a woman carrying a red clay water jar on her head, bringing contagion to a far-off village; Duntan, a defecating Bengali posed like Rodin's Thinker; Kharagpur, a man twisting the tail of his buffalo to make him go faster; Panskura, a crowd of children in school uniforms running along the tracks to their shantytown for lunch; and then the impacted precincts of Budge-Budge, where what I first took to be the poignant sight of an old man leading a small boy through the detritus of a train yard was a blind man with a devilish face squeezing the arm of the frightened child who was his guide.